The purists here use a chalk-based mixture - limewash, if you like, but I find it's too dusty, and I have trouble believing it's terribly healthy.Īll my exposed wood (beams, floors, stairs, doors, window sills etc) is treated with Xylophene (sometimes - depends on the condition of the wood) and then Linseed Oil or a vitrificateur in the shade I want.īut paint and other stuff here is hellishly expensive, I agree. Faible odeur : sa formule en phase aqueuse spcifique permet l\’amnagement de votre pice dans la. Confort d\’application : agrable appliquer, sans claboussure, ni coulure. La peinture couleurs du monde terres d\’Afrique s\’applique sur murs et boiseries.
(Where I've wanted colour, I just mix from a syringe of paint-dye to the shade I want to the basic white stuff.) Peinture couleurs du monde Plaines d\’Asie DULUX VALENTINE 0.5L/2.5L. I've achieved best results using "crepi interieur" on all surfaces, replicating the un-smooth surface of the original walls - not rough, just "textured" slightly, and then painting with the cheapest BIG buckets of white I can find. Here, my walls are "pise" (some wattle/daub/pebble/rubble composition peculiar to this area) which is highly porous but allows the building to breathe (hence no humidity in this watermill), or plasterboard, or "agglo" - can't remember what that is in English. In principle, I agree with all of you, but as Bev says, the composition of the walls here is different, and many of the "home" products just don't give the same results because they're being applied to different surfaces.Įven for one-coat, the sous-couche is a must, but take care to buy the right sous-couche for the surface to which it's being applied - it's different for breeze-block (parpeing), plasterboard (placo-platre), etc.
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